Facts About Cashmere: A Complete Guide to the World's Finest Natural Fibre

Everything you need to know about cashmere — its origins, how it is produced, how to judge quality, and how to care for it. Written by GOBI Cashmere, producing cashmere garments in Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia since 1981.

Cashmere is a natural textile fibre harvested from the soft undercoat of cashmere goats. Known for being warmer than sheep's wool while weighing significantly less, cashmere has been prized across Central Asia for over a thousand years. Today, Mongolia and China together produce more than 90% of the world's raw cashmere,¹ with each goat yielding only 150–200 grams of usable fibre per year.²

What Is Cashmere?

Cashmere is a natural textile fibre obtained from the soft undercoat of cashmere goats (Capra hircus laniger). The word "cashmere" is an anglicization of "Kashmir," the Himalayan region where the fibre was first traded in large quantities centuries ago.

Cashmere goats grow two coats to survive extreme cold: a coarse outer guard hair that protects against weather, and a fine, soft inner layer called "down" or "undercoat" that provides insulation. It is this inner layer — not the goat's entire fleece — that becomes cashmere.

The fibre is characterised by four measurable properties:

• Fineness — typically 14–19 microns in diameter, compared to 18–24 microns for merino wool
• Warmth-to-weight ratio — greater insulation per gram than sheep wool of equivalent thickness
• Lightness — a cashmere garment typically weighs less than a wool garment of equivalent warmth
• Softness — fibres under 19 microns generally do not trigger the "prickle response" associated with coarser wool

How Cashmere Is Produced

The journey from goat to garment involves seven distinct stages, many of which are still performed by hand. A single cashmere sweater can take up to a year to produce from raw fibre.

1. Growth (Winter)

Cashmere goats grow their undercoat during the harsh winter months, typically between November and March. Colder climates tend to produce finer, denser fibre — one reason cashmere from extreme-climate regions is considered premium.

2. Hand-Combing (Spring)

As temperatures rise in April and May, goats naturally begin to shed their undercoat. Herders gently comb the fibre from each goat by hand over several sessions — a process that is less stressful for the animal than shearing and generally produces cleaner fibre.

3. Sorting

Raw fibre is sorted by colour (white, beige, grey, brown), length, and quality. White fibre generally commands higher prices because it can be dyed any colour.

4. Dehairing

Specialised machines separate the fine down from the coarser outer guard hair. Only approximately 30–50% of the combed fibre survives this stage as usable cashmere.²

5. Washing & Scouring

The fibre is washed in a series of temperature-controlled baths to remove dirt, lanolin, and residue. Processors certified under the Sustainable Fibre Alliance (SFA) Clean Fibre Processing Standard use specific water, energy, and chemical-management practices verified by the SFA.⁴

6. Spinning

Cleaned fibres are combed parallel and spun into yarn. Yarn count (commonly noted as "2/26" or "2/28") indicates thickness — higher numbers signal finer yarn.

7. Knitting or Weaving

Yarn is knitted or woven into garments. Gauge (stitches per inch) determines the weight of the final piece: a 12-gauge knit is lightweight and suited to layering; a 7-gauge knit is heavier and designed for cold conditions.

Where Cashmere Is Produced

Cashmere production is concentrated in the highland regions of Central and East Asia, where climate extremes and traditional herding practices combine to produce the fibre. Industry data from the Sustainable Fibre Alliance and UN agencies indicates the following approximate distribution:¹

What Makes Mongolian Cashmere Distinct

Mongolia's continental climate is among the most extreme of any cashmere-producing region, with winter temperatures of approximately −40°C and summer temperatures above +30°C — an annual temperature range exceeding 70°C. Cashmere goats adapt to this range by growing an especially fine and dense undercoat.

Approximately 30% of Mongolia's population is engaged in nomadic herding on open rangeland.⁵ Goats graze on diverse wild pastures year-round, which contributes to fibre characteristics distinct from feedlot-raised animals.

Cashmere Grades Explained

Cashmere is commonly categorised into three grades, though no single universal standard exists. Grade is determined primarily by two factors: fineness (measured in microns) and staple length (measured in millimetres).

Finer, longer fibres produce yarns that resist pilling, hold their shape longer, and feel softer against the skin. With appropriate care, Grade A cashmere garments have the potential for many years of wear.

Cashmere, Merino and Wool Compared

Cashmere's relative price reflects the mathematics of scarcity: it typically takes the annual yield from four to six goats to produce a single cashmere sweater, compared to less than one sheep for a wool equivalent.

How to Judge Cashmere Quality: Five Practical Tests

1. The Stretch Test

Gently stretch a section of the garment. Quality cashmere tends to spring back to its original shape within seconds. Fabric that stays stretched or sags may indicate weak yarn or heavy blending with other fibres.

2. The Rub Test

Rub the garment gently with your palm for 5–10 seconds. If excessive fibres come off or tiny pills form immediately, the fibre may be short-staple or heavily blended.

3. The Warmth Test

Hold the garment against your wrist or neck. Genuine cashmere generally feels warm within seconds — a result of the fibre's insulating properties. Cotton and acrylic feel neutral or cool.

4. The Weight Test

A cashmere garment should feel notably lighter than it appears. Heavy, dense fabric may indicate wool content or lower-grade fibre.

5. The Price Test

Genuine Grade A cashmere commands premium pricing because each goat produces only 150–200 grams of usable fibre per year, and only 30–50% of that survives the dehairing stage. Products priced significantly below market average typically indicate lower-grade fibre, shorter staple length, or blends with other fibres.

How to Care for Cashmere

With appropriate care, a quality cashmere garment has the potential for many years of wear — and often becomes softer with use.

Washing

• Hand-wash in cool water (below 30°C) using a mild wool or cashmere detergent
• Alternatively, use the wool cycle on a washing machine with a mesh laundry bag
• Avoid hot water, bleach, and fabric softener

Drying

• Gently press (do not wring) excess water from the garment
• Roll in a clean towel to absorb remaining moisture
• Lay flat on a fresh towel, reshape gently, and air-dry away from direct sunlight and heat
• Avoid tumble-drying cashmere

Storage

• Always fold cashmere — hanging can stretch the shoulders
• Store in breathable cotton bags rather than plastic
• Cedar blocks or lavender sachets may help deter moths

Pilling

• Some pilling is natural and typically decreases after the first several wears
• Use a cashmere comb or pilling stone rather than scissors
• Resting garments between wears allows fibres to recover their shape

Cashmere's Environmental Footprint

Cashmere production has significant and well-documented environmental considerations. Understanding these helps consumers make informed purchasing decisions.

The Challenges

According to the United Nations Development Programme, rising global demand has contributed to increased goat populations in Mongolia, with approximately 70% of Mongolia's pastureland now degraded to some degree.⁵ Goats graze differently from sheep — they can pull grass out by the root — which can make rangeland recovery slower where stocking rates are high.

Industry Responses

A coalition of herder cooperatives, NGOs, and certified processors is working to address these challenges through measurable programmes:

• Rotational grazing — allowing pastures to recover between grazing periods
• Fibre quality over herd size — selecting for finer fibre rather than larger herds
• SFA certification — independently verified standards for cashmere production and processing⁴
• Water and energy management — verified practices in washing and dehairing facilities under SFA Clean Fibre Processing
• Recycled cashmere programmes — use of surplus fibre to reduce waste

A durable, high-quality cashmere garment that is cared for and worn for many years has a materially different footprint profile than one that is replaced after a single season. Certifications provide verifiable evidence of specific practices — without them, environmental claims are difficult to substantiate.

Cashmere Glossary

Dehairing

The mechanical separation of fine cashmere down from coarse guard hair. Approximately 30–50% of raw combed fibre survives dehairing as usable cashmere.

Gauge

The number of stitches per inch in a knitted fabric. Higher gauge indicates a finer, lighter knit. GOBI Cashmere produces knits ranging from 7-gauge (heavy winter) to 16-gauge (ultra-light).

Hand-combing

The traditional method of collecting cashmere fibre from goats during spring moulting. Generally gentler than shearing and tends to produce higher-quality fibre.

Micron

One thousandth of a millimetre. The standard unit for measuring fibre diameter. Fibres under 19 microns are commonly described in the industry as "next-to-skin soft."

Ply

The number of yarn strands twisted together. A 2-ply cashmere garment is generally more durable than a 1-ply at the same gauge.

SFA

Sustainable Fibre Alliance — a global non-profit organisation that develops and verifies standards for cashmere production and processing.

Staple length

The length of an individual cashmere fibre. Longer staples generally produce stronger, less-pilling yarns. Grade A cashmere staples are typically 34 mm or longer.

Worsted vs. woollen

Two spinning methods. Worsted yarns are smoother, finer, and generally more durable. Woollen yarns are fluffier and warmer but tend to pill more.